Back from a wonderful holiday refreshed and inspired. London is that sort of city. I know it had a lot to do with the fact that it’s summer – the sun was out making the city look beautiful and people happy; the World Cup added a certain zing to the air; the economy’s picked up a bit with bars and restaurants packed by 6pm and summer sales making Oxford Street impossible to navigate at anything less than a frantic pace; and I was lucky enough to see some excellent exhibitions on fashion and design.
The permanent Textiles and Fashion Collection at the Victoria and Albert Museum is a fantastic example of this city’s love for fashion. Although I’ve spent many hours here before, what struck me this time was how carefully each piece was chosen to represent the identity of the designer/fashion house. The collection spans dresses from the early 20s with the most recent addition being Alexander McQueen’s reptile-print dress from his last collection (the V&A purchased this on the day his death was announced). And in the spirit of British humor, the collection also includes a pink velour tracksuit by Juicy Couture.
Luxurious fabrics and heavy embellishments that Christian Lacroix became known for.

The Piano Dress – Karl Lagerfeld marries his avant garde aesthetic with a classic cut for Chanel.
Catherine Walker employs the use of pearls and diamante to create an Art Deco style collar reminiscent of 1930s glamor.
Best known for bridal wear, this ensemble designed by Catherine Walker for Princess Diana has the elements of a bride’s outfit with the white silk and pearl beading. It was for an official visit to Hong Kong which is what inspired Walker to use pearls. Diana called it the ‘Elvis Dress’.

The moody colors, geometric striping, and youthful appeal are the reason Biba was an iconic brand.
Vivienne Westwood’s sense for drama and theatricality comes through in this piece. The design was inspired by dresses seen in Antoine Watteau’s paintings but subversions such as the off shoulder and one-sided pouf makes the dress edgy and of the moment.

Blurring the line between gender differences has always been of interest to Dolce & Gabbana, but more so in their 2004 collection which was a tribute to photographer Helmut Newton. The tailoring is always sharp and sometimes severe. And even the accessories chosen to lend femininity have a hard quality – a slim chain belt, a diamante brooch, and a black tube bra.
The preppy look is clear in this ensemble. The plaid wool skirt, cable knit turtleneck sweater – Ralph Lauren was here.
Rei Kawakubo’s dress is asymetrical with frayed ends and is made to look like it has fallen off the hips to reveal the petticoat underneath. Challenging the idea of a ‘finished’ dress and always using a restrained color pallette have been Comme des Garcon trademarks.

Moschino, known for his playful and irreverent designs, had a new take on the LBD – the skirt is made up of black bras. The museum also houses the cheeky chocolate covered bag as well as tshirts with the smiley face – a popular motif used by Moschino.