{Dear readers, below is a piece I’ve written for the November issue of Harper’s Bazaar India}

Manipur-born designer Mawi Keivom always knew she was going to work in fashion, and after studying Fashion Design, Keivom began working in womenswear at Isaac Mizrahi in New York. Luckily for us, that was not the end of the story.

A move to London and a successful handbag collection later, 2003 saw the launch of the designer’s eponymous jewellery brand. Never having designed jewellery before, Mawi’s first collection drew upon her clothing design experience – Victorian lace embellished with vintage pearls, velvet rosettes, and antique coins – and was an immediate hit. The British Fashion Council awarded Mawi the New Generation Award, and continued to do so for the next two seasons – high praise indeed.

Pearl ring from the Costume Luxe collection

Tusk Bracelet from the Punk Nouveau collection

Spike ring from the Punk Rajah collection

Having always been a collector of “bits and pieces”, Mawi remembers that even as a child she would never leave the house without accessorizing: “Being from a tribal culture, symbols and motifs are very important to me. We wear jewellery not just as an adornment, but for spiritual wellbeing. I think my obsession with symbols stems from this.”

She treasures things that are vintage and have a sense of history and character, “Once I’ve laid my creative hands on them I’m giving them a new lease of life and adding value to something old”, she explains. But timing is key for this designer as she often holds onto things for years before they find their way into her designs. Rather than having a particular story in mind, it’s the coming together of different pieces and material that creates a starting point for Mawi when envisioning a collection.

Charm bracelet from the India Rose collection

Mawi’s pieces are full of juxtaposition – hard with soft, pretty with tough, classic with modern: skulls sit alongside delicate pearl florets while crystal beetles march up a row of industrial looking metal tubes. “I’ve got a rebellious streak and I have never wanted to conform”, she says. Mawi also likes to play with elements from different genres and piece them together to create something entirely unique. And while words like vintage, punk rock, gothic, and heritage can all be used to describe her work, her pieces have a signature style that make them instantly recognizable.

Tube necklace from the Deco Noir collection

When asked what propelled her to launch in India at this juncture, Mawi says that although in the past the focus had been on super brands, she believes that the Indian market is changing to incorporate smaller, edgier brands. She also thinks the next few years will see an appreciation for independent labels as Indian consumers will begin to opt for individuality over big names. With global stockists like Harrods, Selfridges, and Bergdorf Goodman under her belt, she hopes that Ozel will be the first of many partnerships in India.

Designing jewellery may not have been what she initially had in mind for herself, but we’re glad Mawi was bitten by the bauble bug.

Image Source:

mawi.co.uk