Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has To Travel

We were racing down Boulevard Saint-Germain in Paris trying to find the tiny slip street with the one theatre that was playing the movie in Version Originale i.e. english, and I remember the feeling of triumph when we slipped into our seats just as it started, thinking I was meant to watch The Eye Has to Travel in Paris.

“How does one become Diana Vreeland?” George Plimpton asks Vreeland in an interview for the memoir he helped her write. “The first thing to do, my love,” she responds, “is to arrange to be born in Paris.”

As with most films on fashion, this one too is packed with anecdotes, interviews, film clips, and pithy one-liners. There is however, more than a smidge of real life. Whether it’s the recollection of being told by her mother that she was “extremely ugly”, Vreeland said later “Parents, you know, can be terrible”; or coping with the death of the love of her life, her husband Thomas Reed Vreeland; or her sons talking about envying their classmates’ more traditional mothers. But what speaks volumes is Vreelend’s constant deflection whenever things get too personal.

“There’s only one very good life and that’s the life you know you want and you make it yourself”

Vreeland wrote in her diary that she had always “been looking out for girls to idolize because they are things to look up to because they are perfect. Never have I discovered that girl or that woman. I shall be that girl.” If she didn’t succeed, it would be a “betrayal of my own self.” Her sense of self shines through in this film – her thoughts, eccentric though they may seems, are clear and there is no sitting on the fence when it comes to her views on fashion.

“Why don’t you wear violet velvet mittens with everything.”

Larger-than-life photoshoots were her way of giving people a point of view, showing them the dreamlike quality of fashion through juxtaposition. “Who but Vreeland could have imagined Lauren Hutton, clad in a lime-green bikini top and harem pants, as the centerpiece of a male initiation rite in Bali?” Her lavish projects came at a cost and she was demoted at Vogue as the magazine shifted focus from high fashion to affordable chic.

“I think part of my success as an editor came from never worrying about a fact, a cause, an atmosphere. It was me—projecting to the public. That was my job. I think I always had a perfectly clear view of what was possible for the public. Give ‘em what they never knew they wanted.”

As a designer, what I took away from the movie was her way of seeing fashion as part of the bigger picture. Being able to see that so much art, literature, architecture, pop culture was derived from fashion and the other way around, and using that in a way to showcase design intelligently. Quotable before Twitter, many of Vreeland’s thoughts have been derided for being frivolous. I thought most of them to be extremely sensible, and so to end:

“Why don’t you paint a map of the world on all four walls of your boys’ nursery so they won’t grow up with a provincial point of view?”

Image source:
pinterest.com

 

Quoted: A New Season

Hello all and happy new year

I was feeling a bit run down by the end of last year and so decided to take a break from social media, which ended up being more long than short. Ah well. I’m back now so onwards and upwards 2013!

The high-maintenance, high-heeled, high-handed approach is looking very Kim Kardashian. Neurotic Chic – a look formerly favoured by many a tense-looking fashion insider here – is giving way to more relaxed codes. Flat shoes – not just lower heels – are everywhere. That’s radical. Flats don’t only make women move differently, they allow them to move fast.

-Lisa Armstrong, The Telegraph

It’s All Dandy

Taramay velvet smoking slippers with leather tassels

This season’s biggest trend -the smoking slipper – is also the most stylish way to stay warm. And we’re not the only ones who think so:

“There’s a new flat in town, which truly encompasses all the elements that a go-to flat should. Smoking slippers are completely comfortable, incredibly easy to wear, and – thanks to varieties of different designers creating varieties of different colours and styles – they can go with almost anything. They are a little more androgynous than ballet flats, and a little simpler than oxfords and loafers.” - 29secrets

“Smoking slippers are the new ballet flats. Not surprising that we’ve been spotting the Hugh Hefner-style loungers all throughout the fashion weeks. And no wonder. This flat is super versatile — and it hits just the right note for Fall: a little preppy, a little garconne, and super comfortable to boot.” – fashionologie

“The smoking slipper is officially the hot new shoe of the season. These slip-ons pack a bigger style punch than other heelless options, and given their structure and plush material, their comfort one-ups the competition, too. Equal parts leisure and luxury, this perfect fall flat can be classic, quirky, or edgy…whatever you’re feeling, the trek from your bed to your office just got a whole lot easier.” – refinery29

And in case you’re wondering how to wear them:

“Industry bible WWD reports that smoking slippers are outselling every other style of flat shoe. Grazia’s Fashion Editor Sophie Ferguson Jones, our resident go-to girl for any must-wear items for the coming season tells us why you need them

“I just like them , they’re so easy; slip on, slip off . And they’re really incredibly comfy, of course. It’s a great neutral shoe – they’re less a statement than a brogue or penny loafer.”

Wear Them With …

“Tailored or cropped trousers, anything mannish. They work for evening too, cos they come in all those luxury fabrics. I’ve worn them with a tuxedo shorts suit or they’re neutral enough to wear with girly skirt.” – Grazia

A Woman’s Heart, (most likely) by a Man

‘The Open Country of Woman’s Heart, Exhibiting its internal communications, and the facilities and dangers to Travellers therein’ (1833-42) – a print from the the exhibition Beauty, Virtue and Vice: Images of Women in Nineteenth-Century American Prints

The largest regions, Love of Admiration, Love of Dress, and Love of Display, all suggest that women are also essentially shallow and frivolous. Although the image claims to have been drawn by “A Lady,” it is just as likely that it proceeded from the imagination of a man. - American Antiquarian Society

Image source:
americanantiquarian.org

 

Quoted: So She Said

“You might ask yourself why fashion is producing such a polarity of dictates this fall. After all, isn’t fashion about expressing one’s individuality. Doesn’t anything go? To a certain extent, this is true. This fall, you can be an S&M secretary/vamp; a ’50s prom queen; a futuristic time-travel babe; a ’40s lipstick-and-lace kind of a gal; a pared-down tomboy; an ethnic, fringy, upmarket hippy; a be-sequined party girl; a satin-and-fur siren; or an oversized, overshaped cross-dresser—and I’ve probably missed a couple of themes. But what are fashion designers for if not to prescribe to us a formula by which we choose, purchase and edit our wardrobes? If beauty gurus sell dreams in a bottle, then designers peddle fantasy in a frock, sexuality in a skirt or even power in a pantsuit. And it generally helps when most—if not all—are singing from the same hymn sheet.”

- Tina Gaudoin on Fall fashion, The Wall Street Journal

In Print: ‘Fashion Week, 10 Years Later: A Bond Forged in Tragedy’

“It started out as the most exciting morning of my life,” said the maternity designer Liz Lange, who, long before the date, had circled Sept. 11, 2001, on her calendar. Her first fashion show, under the tents of Bryant Park, was scheduled for 9 a.m. that day. “We were in our own little bubble,” she said. “And then, I’d say 10 minutes into the show, I looked around and all of these camera crews were just bolting out the door. I was wondering: ‘Have we done something wrong? How did we go from being the center of the universe to everyone’s leaving?”

- Eric Wilson, New York Times (click to read the article)

I read this article early morning and was moved by the stories of each of these designers, how their hopes and dreams were pinned on this one day and what became of them in the aftermath of 9/11.

A few hours later, there was a terrorist attack in Delhi and while I’ve been so angry with what’s happening to my city, parts of this article kept coming back to me – the hope, support, and solidarity – and I thought I’d share it with you.

The Weekly Round-Up {15-19}

In our new ‘Blogs we ♥’ series, this week’s feature is Paris versus New York Why? We love the sometimes irreverent, always humorous take on the two cities, told through art.

Designers and the London riots – do you agree? {via Design Observer}

Is this the end of the red soles? The fashion and trademark debate is back {via The Cut}

We love these sketchbooks from Fashionary

The week @CondeElevator came and went {via The Daily Beast}

The top global fashion capitals see London claiming the top spot. Closer home, Bombay comes in at #24 and Delhi at #39 {via The Global Language Monitor}

“Can I tell you how grateful I am to Kate Middleton? Because she is such an advocate for dressing like a lady.” – Anne Hathaway

Enjoy your weekend reading and we’ll see you on Monday!

Image source:
parisvsnys.blogspot.com