Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has To Travel

We were racing down Boulevard Saint-Germain in Paris trying to find the tiny slip street with the one theatre that was playing the movie in Version Originale i.e. english, and I remember the feeling of triumph when we slipped into our seats just as it started, thinking I was meant to watch The Eye Has to Travel in Paris.

“How does one become Diana Vreeland?” George Plimpton asks Vreeland in an interview for the memoir he helped her write. “The first thing to do, my love,” she responds, “is to arrange to be born in Paris.”

As with most films on fashion, this one too is packed with anecdotes, interviews, film clips, and pithy one-liners. There is however, more than a smidge of real life. Whether it’s the recollection of being told by her mother that she was “extremely ugly”, Vreeland said later “Parents, you know, can be terrible”; or coping with the death of the love of her life, her husband Thomas Reed Vreeland; or her sons talking about envying their classmates’ more traditional mothers. But what speaks volumes is Vreelend’s constant deflection whenever things get too personal.

“There’s only one very good life and that’s the life you know you want and you make it yourself”

Vreeland wrote in her diary that she had always “been looking out for girls to idolize because they are things to look up to because they are perfect. Never have I discovered that girl or that woman. I shall be that girl.” If she didn’t succeed, it would be a “betrayal of my own self.” Her sense of self shines through in this film – her thoughts, eccentric though they may seems, are clear and there is no sitting on the fence when it comes to her views on fashion.

“Why don’t you wear violet velvet mittens with everything.”

Larger-than-life photoshoots were her way of giving people a point of view, showing them the dreamlike quality of fashion through juxtaposition. “Who but Vreeland could have imagined Lauren Hutton, clad in a lime-green bikini top and harem pants, as the centerpiece of a male initiation rite in Bali?” Her lavish projects came at a cost and she was demoted at Vogue as the magazine shifted focus from high fashion to affordable chic.

“I think part of my success as an editor came from never worrying about a fact, a cause, an atmosphere. It was me—projecting to the public. That was my job. I think I always had a perfectly clear view of what was possible for the public. Give ‘em what they never knew they wanted.”

As a designer, what I took away from the movie was her way of seeing fashion as part of the bigger picture. Being able to see that so much art, literature, architecture, pop culture was derived from fashion and the other way around, and using that in a way to showcase design intelligently. Quotable before Twitter, many of Vreeland’s thoughts have been derided for being frivolous. I thought most of them to be extremely sensible, and so to end:

“Why don’t you paint a map of the world on all four walls of your boys’ nursery so they won’t grow up with a provincial point of view?”

Image source:
pinterest.com

 

The Memoirs of Grace Coddington

I love Grace Coddington – even before The September Issue, it seemed that every editorial shoot I liked was hers. So you can imagine how excited I was when news broke that she was writing her memoirs. The book will be out late November but till then, here are some preview pictures via Vogue:

From left to right: Manolo Blahnik, Anna Piaggi, Pat Cleveland, Antonio Lopez, Donna Jordan and Karl Lagerfeld

A shoot for US Vogue, Annie Leibovitz, 2003

A shoot for British Vogue, Norman Parkinson, 1971

And for those who can’t get enough, here’s a profile piece by the New York Times.

Fashion in Miniature

Mughal miniatures have long since been one of my favorite form of art, and while I love the traditional work, I’m really enjoying the work of artists like The Singh Twins and Alexander Gorlizki who have been working on contemporary motifs and scenarios using the miniature technique.

This recent Vogue editorial marries fashion and art in a wonderful way and uses it to illustrate the life of an ‘it’girl.

Why We Love the Vogue Anniversary Issue

Vogue India, like most fashion magazine franchises, started with a bang but not much substance – too much international content, heavy on Bollywood features, and covering the same (seemingly) six people over and over again. This has changed tremendously in the last five years, and Vogue India is a magazine now more sure of itself, with a lot more indigenous content – and while still heavily reliant on Bollywood, has found a way too make it more relevant from fashion’s point of view.

This issue in particular has a lot going on – I especially like the collaborations by international brands using Indian textiles; the sari feature was beautifully shot. But  one of the photoshoots that caught my eye was the fantastically styled set of scenes inspired by musicals.

{Shree 420}

{Grease}

{Caravan}

{The Sound of Music}

{The King and I}

{West Side Story}

{Moulin Rouge}

 

On the Cover: September 2012

September heralds the new fashion season, and with it the biggest-selling magazine editions of the year. Suffice it to say, these are the most coveted covers of the year.

{Lady Gaga covers Vogue US; Karlie Kloss for Vogue UK}

{Katy Perry covers Elle US; Rosie Huntington-Whiteley on the cover of Elle UK}

{Gwen Stefani for Harper’s Bazaar US; Keira Knightley covers Harper’s Bazaar UK}

{Jennifer Lopez covers InStyle US; Daisy Lowe covers InStyle UK}

{Jessica Chastain covers the subscriber’s issue of Vanity Fair while the Duchess of Cambridge - after topping the Best Dressed List – covers the newsstand issue with a photograph from the 2011 BAFTA Gala}

{Penelope Cruz for W Magazine}

{In a coup of sorts – Kim Kardashian on the cover of New York Magazine}

{Daphne Groeneveld is the covergirl for WSJ Magazine}

{Cindy Crawford covers Tatler}

Image source:
fashionista.com